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Q: Should I worry about screen burn in on a rear projection tv when playing console games such as Sony Playstation? I’ve heard opposing arguments.—Ryan Sandridge
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Dear Mr. Sandridge: Thanks for your inquiry. Manufacturers typically recommend against using video games with projection TVs because of the screen “burn-in” factor you mentioned. One reason they take this position is that they do not want to assume warranty liability for screens that are damaged due to video game use.
Our position at Myer-Emco is that you can feel free to use your TV with video games as long as you do not leave the game on the screen for long periods of time, particularly when the game is not in use. Remember that you do run the risk of a non-warranty repair to fix this problem if the games burns an image into your screen.
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Q: I have a PPI A404 at 200+2. what would be the best sub-woofer setup to run with this. I already have 2-8inch JL’s they just don’t hit hard enough. And also how would I run the speakers since the JL box’s are wired for one channel. The woofers I am looking at are the w-6’s. I heard only running 2 of them put a weird impedance load on the amp. I will be trading in my 8’s for $300 and I have another $300 on top of that. Which is the best way to go? — Jason Lesher
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Mr. Lesher: Thank you for visiting Myer-Emco's website. Given the current amplifier that you own (PPI A404) you have two options for wiring the new subs.
Option one: Bridge your four channel amp into two channels to run two separate subs. This will create a 3 ohm load on each half of the amplifier. The amplifier will run hotter, so proper air circulation would be important when choosing this option. You cannot harm the amp if it gets too hot, it will simply shut down and then reset itself. Keep in mind that impedance loads are frequency dependent, so adding a subsonic filter will greatly reduce the stress on the PPI.
Option two: The JL W6s are a dual voice coil subwoofer, and therefore you could run two channels of the amp into each sub without bridging the amp. You would simply run each channel into each of the subs voice coils. This would not place as much stress on the amp as option one, but wouldn't hit as hard. I would wire your system as option one and if your amplifier continually shuts down you could then rewire as option two. If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.
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Q: I am thinking about buying a pair of the B&W CDM1 speakers as the front speakers for a home theater setup in a smaller room, but I’m not sure I can afford a pair of the CDM1’s for the rear speakers also. Are the B&W 600 series speakers voice matched with the CDM series so I can combine the two? Would you recommend combining the CDM series with the 600 series or should I just go with one or the other? — Michael Aaron
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Dear Mr. Aaron: In the new world of Dolby Digital and other discrete digital multi-channel technologies, you are absolutely right that the best way to go in a multi-channel system is 5 perfectly matched speakers driven by 5 perfectly matched amplifiers. Unfortunately, limitations in budget and décor often keep this from happening.
The next best thing to do is what you’re considering. The 600 series is a perfect match for the CDM series. The two series employ a very similar tweeter design, and the mid-bass drivers use many of the same technologies and materials. I would say that the two series are close enough that CDM’s in the front and 600’s in the rear would be a better multi-channel system than one that exclusively used 600 series, but, of course, CDM’s all around are the best choice.
If you’re a Myer-Emco customer, don’t forget about our 1 Year Speaker Upgrade Policy. If you can’t afford CDM’s all around now, buy 600 series and upgrade later!
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Q: I use B&W DM601s for front speakers (CC6 center and DM302s rear). Do they have to be equidistant from the TV (50 inch Toshiba) or can one be farther away from the TV than the other? Also should the DM302s face each other or the front of the room? Thanks! — GS
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Dear GS: Thanks for your letter. Your best placement option for the front speakers is equidistant from the TV set, which would be right in front of your sitting position. If that isn’t possible, I would make sure the each speaker is the same distance from your sitting position, even if that makes the TV not exactly dead center in front of you.
With regard to the rear speakers, it is never a good idea to have direct-radiating speakers facing each other. Most people place that type of speaker on the rear wall facing the front of the room, which is typically ok. We tend to prefer placement that angles the speaker toward your sitting position from the rear of the room.
Remember that this advice applies to direct-radiating speakers like the DM302’s. Bipolar rear speakers have a different set of placement rules!
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Q: I have a 98 Ford Contour SVT, I think the factory speakers are 5x7’s. Is there an upgrade that won’t take a major mod but will give a nice clean sound? — Dale
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Dale: We do in fact carry a very good replacement speaker for your Ford. Eclipse makes a top of the line 5" x 7" component speaker with a coincidentally mounted tweeter. The 8973 can handle an enormous amount of power and includes an outboard crossover, one inch silk dome tweeter that provides very smooth high frequency response, and a three year warranty. We invite you to visit our nearest location and give them a listen.
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Q: Why do the Adcom tuner/preamp combo’s seem to be second chair to the Yahama 770? Is the GFA-5300 w/the GTP-350 a better performer and therefor worth the extra money. Thank you for your consideration of my concerns. — Jim McKeever
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Dear Mr. McKeever: Thanks for your question. I’m not sure what you mean by “second chair,” but let me answer your 2nd question first.
The question of whether or not to buy separate components or a receiver has been with us at Myer-Emco almost since we started in business 44 years ago! The advantages of a receiver are that they tend to take up less space in your cabinet and they tend to cost less than separate components. Some people also feel that a receiver is a bit simpler to operate than a combination of separate components.
The rest of the equation is weighted in favor of high quality separate components. Separates employ separate power supplies and chassis, which adds to the cost, but also can make dramatic improvements in performance. A single, high-quality dedicated power supply allows an amplifier to drive your speakers in the most efficient, low distortion fashion possible. Remember that power ratings and other specifications don’t tell the whole story about real world performance. The amplifier’s ability to control the motion of the drivers can be the difference between clean sound and boomy, unclear sound from your speakers!
Of course, a high quality receiver will outperform low quality separates, so make sure the separates you choose are of high quality (like the Adcom).
As to your “second chair” question, if you are asking me which we sell more of, Yamaha receivers or Adcom separates; the answer is that we sell dramatically more Yamaha. Yamaha is great stuff and offers people the performance and features they want at the right price. But if you want the best, separates are still the way to go. And, of course, Yamaha makes wonderful separates, as well!
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Q: I’m curious about the new dual CD players with recording ability. (So far I’ve just seen a couple of units from Phillips/Magnovox) My question is, do you truly get digital quality recordings with these systems or does the sound quality diminish with each generation of recording you make? In addition, are these systems as easy to use as a dual cassette deck? Thanks for you input. — Frank Chang
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Dear Mr. Chang: Thanks for your question. We do not yet carry any dual CD decks, so I can’t answer your question about their ease of use, but I can tell you that the CD recorders we do offer (from Pioneer and Marantz, which is Philips’ high-end brand) make digital copies that are basically perfect reproductions of the original source.
Due to the copy protection scheme of these recorders, you can only copy from the original CD. You are not permitted to make copies of your copies.
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Q: I have plans to put more than two subs in the back of my 89 probe. I would like to put two 12” subs in a bandpass enclosure. Two 8” in a ported enclosure, and three 8” in a free-air model. I like to listen to Rap & Alternative. In the brand of speakers you offer, could you suggest some speakers that will perform at peak efficiency and have great slam while still playing loud without distortion. I don’t care how much I spend. I just want some great sounding speakers! Thanks a lot! — Tyler
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Tyler: Wow, three sets of different size subs. Sounds like mass confusion to me. If you really want to do more than one pair of subs this is what I recommend. Two JL Audio free-air 8" subs in the rear crossed over as midbass, and one pair of 12" JL Audio W3s in a sealed enclosure. Too many subs will simply cancel each other out. We want more bass, not cancellation.
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Q: I’m putting a home theater setup in, and I have older l + r speakers: Infinity RS-4b (dual woofers, EMIT tweeters). A Sony 915 receiver will power everything. What center speaker, subwoofer, and rear speakers would you suggest? The room has a cathedral ceiling, paneled walls; the length of the room suggests side mounting of the rear speakers. Thanks for your advice. — Mike Brosnan
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Thanks for your inquiry. As you are aware, the five main speakers of your home theater should have similar sonic characteristics, for the highest level of realism. As sonic images move from side to side or front to back in the room, they need to sound pretty much the same, for the image to be believable.
The only really good match for an Infinity speaker with an EMIT tweeter is another Infinity speaker with EMIT tweeter, which I don’t think is even being made anymore. I guess the first choice would be to sell your RS4’s on the used market and build a new home theater around your favorite current line of speakers. If you’re in love with the RS4’s (they were a good speaker in their time!), then a good match for them might come from Definitive Technology, which also features an open, spacious sound with full frequency response and good bass. Check out the BPX or BP2X effects speakers and the CLR1000 or CLR2000 center channel. If you choose to get rid of the RS4’s, look into the BP8’s. They are an updated version of what you liked about the Infinity’s.
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Q: Could you tell me, please, which B&W model Nautilus 800 speakers are the ones that your web site mentions are priced at $1,999? Under “new audio products”.) Are these in stock yet? I love my B&W 604Bs, and am thinking about upgrading to the Nautlius technology. Thanks. — Reid Adler
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Dear Mr. Adler: Thanks for your letter. The B&W Nautilus 805 speakers retail for $1,999 a pair. They are absolutely awesome, but they will have less bass than your DM604’s. As you know, less bass can be better, when it is tight and accurate. May I suggest that you visit one of our stores and “A-B” the 805’s against the DM604’s?
The next step up Nautilus 804’s have not been released yet by B&W, but they promise to “have it all,” with outstanding, accurate, deep bass response.
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